Railfanning the southern portion of the CORP:
Black Butte, California to Grants Pass, Oregon
Narrative by Craig Bass, May 2003
NOTE: On Nov. 17, 2003, a fire of unknown origin (suspected to have been set by vandals) occured near the north end of Tunnel 13. It burned support timbers and caused debris to collapse for about 400 feet near the north end of the tunnel. Service on this line was suspended with traffic being rerouted to the Union Pacific at Eugene, Oregon. The tunnel was finally reopened for traffic on April 7, 2005.
Let it be known that although I like trains and consider myself a railfan, I am really more of a train-watcher than a foamer, in that I don't know things like job numbers and total tonnage and other statistics, so if you are a dedicated foamer you will probably find inaccuracies in my narratives. Feel free to correct me on any of the errors you may find, otherwise I hope you enjoy reading from my point of view!
The Central Oregon and Pacific Railroad operates on former owner Southern Pacific's Siskiyou Line trackage from Black Butte, California, to Springfield Junction, near Eugene Oregon. Once one of the last bastions of SP's famous lower-quadrant semaphore signals, the line still beckons the railfan and photographer with grand scenic beauty. Semaphores are still to be found in many locations north of Ashland, Oregon, but for the most part they have been replaced with modern bi-directional color light signals. It's also still possible to find operating wig wag crossing signals on the CORP. (Note that this is being written in 2003 and things are changing fast, signal-wise.)
The southern portion of the CORP is visible throughout most of its length from various public roads and highways. Unfortunately, one of its most scenic segments, where it crosses the Siskiyou Summit just north of the California/Oregon border, hosts only one train each direction per weekday (night) and is mostly inaccessible from public view or access. Nevertheless, a day spent following the tracks from Black Butte to Medford or Grants Pass can be a rewarding experience for the person who loves railroads - even if the trains are absent.
At its southernmost terminus, the CORP interchanges with Union Pacific at Black Butte, California amidst a backdrop of pine trees, in the shadow of towering Mount Shasta (14,162'). To reach the Black Butte yard, exit Interstate 5 at South Weed and head east two blocks. Just past the Taco Bell, turn right. Follow this road approximately 1/4 mile; you will see a dirt/gravel road leading to the left. Turn left and follow this road (it's a little washboardy but easily accessible by all vehicles) about 1/2 mile to the yard. Note that the public road turns left at the tracks and ends at a private crossing.
At Black Butte you will see an old water tower on the opposite side of the tracks, with a fill pipe between the two main tracks, convenient for those rare occasions when a visiting steam locomotive may need a drink. A water crane formerly stood where the fill pipe is now, but was taken out by an Amtrak derailment on December 7, 2000 when the lead unit of the southbound Coast Starlight struck a tank car that had derailed moments earlier and had fouled the mainline during CORP switching operations.
Union Pacific operates many trains a day through Black Butte; this is on their Portland-to-Roseville main line. Be aware that UP does not look kindly on trespassers, especially in these post 9-11 days.
The CORP meets the UP at the wye just east of the end of the public roadway. A dirt road runs adjacent to the CORP back to south Weed, unknown to us if it is a private access road so we cannot recommend following it (but it is a good road and will return you to the south Weed business area). Along this stretch, a siding supplies covered hopper loads of plastic pellets to the Crystal Geyser Roxanne water bottling plant on the north side of the CORP tracks.
Back at south Weed, the tracks enter a sharp curve to the north and play hide-and-seek with Siskiyou Way. A curve along a cut bank brings them into view of downtown Weed. From Siskiyou Way, turn right on South Weed Blvd. and then right again at the first street beyond the freeway overpass. You'll be able to see the track along the side of the hill to your right. Often, a train will be sitting along this stretch, waiting for a crew. Turn left on Boles Creek St. and then right on Main Street.
Main St. crosses the tracks after making an S curve just past the Weed Mercantile. To your left at the crossing, a siding curves up into what remains of one of Weed's lumber mills. Following the road to your left will bring you to Roseburg Parkway, where you can turn left again and possibly find a switch job working the Roseburg Forest Products mill. Be advised that although Roseburg Pkwy is open to the public, it is on mill property and Roseburg's opinion of trespassers is slightly less tolerant than UP's so don't go wandering off the parkway to follow any tracks unless you first obtain permission!
Heading back toward the Mercantile, turn right just after you cross the tracks. This alley will follow the tracks to the location of the Weed depot. Although the depot is long gone, CORP has a small crew office there and most of the time you will find two or three of CORP's red and gray diesels idling alongside.
Photo # june5-04
Weed yard is on a fairly steep grade and strings of cars must be "tied down" tightly (hand brakes set).
Also at Weed yard, a wye provides rail access to the other side of the mill area. Late afternoons seem to be a good time to catch switching activities on the mill spur, visible from Alamo Avenue and Railroad Avenue.
While you are in Weed, drop by the Weed Historical Lumber Town Museum at 303 Gilman Street. They have a great collection of old railroad photos and equipment from the time when logging railroads plied the forest, as well as a very detailed map of those roads. The Museum is closed after Labor Day; opens Memorial Day weekend. However, it is available by appointment during off season.
Leaving Weed, follow Weed Blvd. north out of town. The CORP appears on your right just after you pass the Ray's Food Place market and parallels the road. Just before you enter the northbound onramp to I-5, turn right on Edgewood Road, then you may choose to go right again onto Old Edgewood Road. Both roads generally follow the right of way, but neither gives you a full view of the tracks for the entire distance to Edgewood. If you decide to take Old Edgewood Road, you will be on the opposite side of Boles Creek Valley from the track but you can see more of it, as well as crossing under it at a narrow viaduct just before you enter the Shasta Valley and drop into Edgewood.
At Edgewood, the roads come back together and you continue north. Not much here now, but SP used to have a siding and depot in Edgewood adjacent to the railroad crossing. Continue north to the Weed Airport; the track is visible as it climbs the side of a ridge to your left. The road also curves left just north of town and comes close to the railroad as it ducks under Interstate 5 at Weed Airport. The tracks make a sweeping curve around a bucolic farmstead as they continue their descent into the Shasta Valley.
Entering I-5 southbound, go south to the Edgewood exit. Turn right, then another right onto Old Highway 99. Follow 99 north; after about four miles you will be reunited with the CORP right of way as it winds through a series of S-curves after crossing the valley. Many famous photos have been taken of Southern Pacific passenger trains here with Mt. Shasta in the background; if you're lucky you may catch a photo opp with the CORP's Weed-Hornbrook Hauler which runs from (obviously) Weed to Hornbrook and return. Usually, though, it runs at night, passing this area heading north around 10:15 PM or so.
Another couple of miles north on 99 you will go through the town of Gazelle. Often, wood chip hoppers or surplus cars will be set out on the siding here although there are no industries in town.
Continuing north from Gazelle, Old 99 closely parallels the tracks to Grenada. Nearing Grenada, the tracks and roadway again pass under Interstate 5. Watch for a series of short-masted signals along the track; these are signals for a track scale about a quarter mile north of where you pass under the freeway. The scale dates way back into the Southern Pacific days, and a standard SP concrete phone shelter still stands adjacent to the scalehouse along with a 1970's era ACI label scanner installation. The scale is not in current use, although the scale house is equipped with a relatively new-looking air conditioning unit.
The old two story SP depot in Grenada is still standing; today it appears to be a private residence. An old black triple dome tank car is permanently parked on a section of track adjacent to the depot. At Grenada, turn right on County Road A-12 just long enough to cross the tracks, then take an immediate left on Grenada-Montague Road. This road parallels the tracks about halfway to Montague, where the tracks cross the road on an S curve then cross the Shasta River on a long trestle. From this point on into Montague, the road and the tracks are again on opposite sides of the valley but the tracks remain in sight as you enter Montague.
Montague is another historic railroad town, and the junction of the CORP and the Yreka Western Railroad. Following tracks that were first laid in 1881, the Blue Goose takes passengers over the Yreka Western Railroad through the Shasta Valley from Yreka to Montague and return. The Blue Goose is a 1915 Baldwin steam locomotive, and the trains consist of both open and enclosed cars as well as a unique caboose of McCloud River Railroad heritage. Offering dinner excursions, special seasonal trains, murder mysteries and the occasional train robbery or two, the Blue Goose is a favorite among many tourists, whether they be railfans or not. While in Montague, passengers may enjoy a leisurely lunch in the park or at one of the town's restaurants while the train is readied for the return trip to Yreka.
Note: Due to the tunnel fire on the CORP's Siskiyou line, the Yreka Western has lost a lot of business and the Blue Goose train has been annulled. The entire railroad is in receivership and is currently (2005) for sale . For more information and details, see the Yreka Western's website at www.yrekawesternrr.com,
Leaving Montague, continue north on the same road on which you entered town (which now becomes Montague Ager Road). You will be following the CORP from here to Hornbrook; the tracks remain visible most of the way.
Several miles north of Montague you will come upon Ager Beswick Road. You will find an old wigwag signal protecting the grade crossing on Ager Beswick Rd; just beyond the crossing is a large white house and stables. This was once a stage station on the Topsy Grade stage coach route between Yreka and Linkville, Oregon (now Klamath Falls). If you have a four wheel drive vehicle with good ground clearance, a trip up the stage route into Oregon is another fun adventure to be experienced another day!
The tracks and Montague Ager Road thread through a small canyon that opens up on the Klamath River.
About halfway between Montague Ager Road and the Klamath River, there was once a siding called Thrall. This was a junction with the short-lived Klamath Lake Railroad which followed the Klamath River from the Southern Pacific up to a no-longer-existing logging town called Pokegama. First used to transport logs, passengers and the U.S. Mail, the Klamath Lake Railroad was pared back to Klamath Hot Springs by 1912 and was then used during the construction of Copco and Iron Gate Dams. The last rails were removed in 1942, sold to the U.S. Army and transported to Fernley, Nevada.
Getting back to the Central Oregon and Pacific, the tracks cross the Klamath river at Klamathon on the newest bridge on the line; the original through truss bridge at this location was destroyed in a derailment in 1988. You'll make a left turn onto Henley Copco Road and continue to parallel the tracks until they swing northward and cross the road as they enter Henley/Hornbrook. Turn right at the next street and you can follow the tracks through town.
Hornbrook used to be a station on the SP where helper engines were added for the trip over the Siskiyou Summit to Ashland, but not much is left of the railroad's presence now. This is where the CORP's northbound Weed-Hornbrook Hauler meets the southbound Medford-Hornbrook Hauler to exchange consists. The locomotives then return to either Weed or Medford with cars from the other's train. Good luck watching the meet; the current scheduled time for this meet is 2:00 a.m!
Go north on I-5 from Henley/Hornbrook. You will be able to see the railroad to your right above the freeway, beginning its climb over Bailey Hill. You will cross under the railroad near the summit of Bailey Hill.
Take the Hilt exit. This is the last California exit on I-5. Cross over the freeway and stop at the Texaco station. Inside the store you will find some interesting old photographs of Hilt in its heyday. Hilt used to be the site of a large wooden box mill owned by Fruit Growers Supply Co. Fruit Growers still owns a lot of timberland in the area, but the mill is gone.
Follow the road as it winds down into the town of Hilt. Several foundations and a drying structure still remain as does a Fruit Growers office building. The small yard there has dwindled down to a single siding.
Where you go next depends upon the season and weather conditions. If it is snowing, or you can see snow in the mountains to your north, unless you have four wheel drive you would probably want to return to I-5 and continue north. Otherwise, continue west on Hilt Road.
You will come to a railroad crossing; the paved road becomes a dirt/gravel road as it enters Oregon. The road and the railroad thread another canyon; there are some scenic places here to catch a picture if a train happens to be in the area.
After the next railroad crossing, bear to the left with the more heavily traveled road (a Buddhist Monastery will be to your right; you will see many poles holding hundreds of prayers written on cloth flags). At this point, the railroad parts company with the dirt road as it curves to the southwest, but you will cross it again in the community of Colestin. Keep your speed down through Colestin; there are several residences there and the road can be dusty.
Once you cross the tracks, the road bends to the right to again parallel the tracks. You will be in close proximity to the right of way for about a mile or so, then again the road diverts from the tracks as it takes a steeper route to the summit. You will not see the tracks again until you are on the other side of the summit; the tracks cross under the summit in infamous Tunnel 13, infamous due to its being the location of the "West's Last Great Train Hold-up," or, rather, attempted train hold-up, one of the most widely publicized robberies in Southern Pacific's history.
On October 11, 1923, after several weeks of planning and practicing, the DeAutremont brothers, Hugh, Ray and Roy, stopped southbound Southern Pacific passenger train #13 at the south end of Tunnel 13. They chose this train because they were under the mistaken belief that it was transporting $40,000 in gold to San Francisco.
All trains were required to stop at Siskiyou Summit station just before the north end of the tunnel and set up their brakes for the trip downgrade. As it entered the tunnel, the train was still going slow enough that Hugh and Roy DeAutremont were able to swing aboard. Brandishing shotguns, they ordered the engineer, Sidney Bates, to stop the train as the locomotive cleared the south end of the tunnel. Ray was waiting at the south portal with dynamite. After the train was stopped, they told Bates to uncouple the engine from the mail car but he either refused or was not able to do so. They shot and killed the engineer and fireman, Marvin Seng, and proceeded to blast their way into the mail car.
Unfortunately for them -- and for Elvyn Dougherty, the mail clerk -- Ray used way too much dynamite and the explosion destroyed the mail car, killing the mail clerk, who was trapped inside. Then Coyl Johnson, a brakeman, came forward through the tunnel to see what was wrong and he was also shot and killed.
The blast and ensuing fire destroyed everything in the mail car, and the DeAutremont brothers ran off without a penny, leaving several passengers cut and injured by flying glass from the explosion. The brothers were all captured four years later.
To this day a wreath is placed at the north portal of the tunnel every October to honor the railroaders killed in the robbery attempt. |
As the tracks head for the tunnel, Colestin road heads to the top of the ridge. Turn right at the paved road and follow the road back towards I-5. Turn left on the frontage road at the stop sign. A gravel road will soon appear to your left; it will take you to the site of Siskiyou Summit station and the north portal of Tunnel 13. Be advised, however, that the road is gated as it nears the railroad and from that point on is private property.
At the junction with I-5, you are again faced with a choice. Neither of them give you a particularly good view of the railroad until you get to Ashland.
At this point, you can either:
- Proceed east under the freeway and follow the road as it winds down the hill. This is Old Siskiyou Highway. You will intersect the railroad twice as you descend the hill; while you have only gone a couple of miles, the railroad has been winding back and forth to lose altitude, passing through two more tunnels (including one with an almost 180° turn inside it), crossing Wall Creek on a spectacular trestle and I-5 on a concrete viaduct. At the bottom of the hill you will briefly parallel the tracks but then you won't see them again until you drive through Ashland. If you continue on this course, turn left on Crowson Road to come into Ashland at the south end. You will cross I-5 then a little further on you will cross the railroad and then meet Old Highway 99.
- Or, head north on Interstate 5 down the grade to Ashland. You will cross under the tracks about a third of the way down the hill, but otherwise will not be able to see the tracks until you reach the bottom. At the bottom of the hill the tracks swing close to the east of the freeway, then make a little jog to gain an alignment with another bridge across I-5. Take the first Ashland exit; this will put you across the freeway on a bridge immediately adjacent to the railroad's bridge. You are once again on Old Highway 99 and pretty much following the tracks into Ashland, albeit once you've crossed the freeway the tracks run behind houses. You can take any of the major surface streets that cross the tracks to get a feel for the railroad's path through Ashland, as well as the various mills and sidings in town.
As Highway 99 leaves Ashland to the north, look to your right to see two semaphores along the tracks. Highway 99 will then duck under the tracks and continue to follow them northward, although the tracks drift away from the highway. The tracks hug a hill to the west of and above Highway 99; semaphores are to be found on this stretch of railroad so be sure and explore some of the roads and streets that head west from Highway 99! After Phoenix, the tracks once again run near the highway, all the way into Medford.
Photo # corpphx
Looking south along the Central Oregon and Pacific's
former Southern Pacific Siskiyou line at Phoenix, Oregon
There is a small yard in Medford, and more semaphores north of town. North of Medford, the tracks pass under I-5 and head northeast. You can follow them by crossing over the freeway and following Blackwell Road. After you cross the tracks, turn right on Gold Ray Road. This road becomes dirt/gravel as it follows the tracks as they make their way to Gold Hill. A wig wag signal protects a crossing in this backcountry area, although it may have been replaced by a standard crossing signal by the time you read this. After you cross the tracks (note the Gold Ray dam to your right), bear left on the dirt road that roughly follows the railroad. Although dusty, this road is passable with any vehicle -- so long as it hasn't been raining.
After a couple of miles you will again cross the tracks. This is now Upper River Road, and it will follow the tracks as they make their way to Gold Hill. During this segment, you will cross the tracks twice more. At Blackwell Road (which is also Old Highway 99), turn right and follow the tracks across the river into Gold Hill. While in Gold Hill, be sure and visit the Oregon Vortex House of Mystery!
Highway 99 continues to parallel the tracks for several miles, then it will bear to the left and cross the river again. At the point where it bears left, take North River Road to continue following the tracks toward the town of Rogue River Turn left on the road leading to Valley of the Rogue State Park and go north on I-5, which also parallels the tracks to Rogue River.
After you've passed through Rogue River, Foothill Blvd. runs adjacent to the tracks for a good portion of the way to Grants Pass. |
